Misty Baldersdale

It's been a long tough Winter up until now as far as walking and me are concerned. Every spare morning or day on a weekend has been taken up by work and studies and so I haven't been able to get out and about anywhere near as much as I would like to have. I did manage a quick escape on a long Sunday afternoon, jumping into the car and heading up into Teesdale.

I have explored the area around Baldersdale a couple of times already, walking up Goldsborough and nearby Hury reservoir. A couple of miles to the south near Bowes you have the spectacular God's Bridge which can be visited on the Bowes loop on the Pennine Way.

AW didn't have good things to say about the reservoirs here. I think over the years nature has reimposed itself on the area and for me the man made lakes can be seen as a thing of beauty. This is a remote part of Teesdale and away from the star attractions such as High Force and as such, it is a perfect place to get away from it all.

I only had a couple of hours of daylight left, so my intention was to park up near Blackton reservoir and have a quick walk up Shacklesborough. This is a limestone outcrop, similar to its twin Goldsborough, poking it's head up from the moors with a flat summit that reminds me of a miniature Ingleborough.

However the weather had other plans, and once I had made some headway along the Pennine Way and up past Balderhead reservoir, the mist closed in and the visibility was reduced dramatically. Although my GPS told me that Shacklesborough was just a short distance ahead, it was nowhere in sight! Furthermore the light was fading fast, so I decided the best thing to do would be to head back to the car, making a small detour to walk along the water. This was a bit of a mistake, as although the shoreline looked fairly straight and easy to follow there were in fact some sudden steep ravines, which meant I had to make long detours.

I bumped into one other person on the walk only and we had a chat about where we had been that day. Tim Laurie had a fascinating story to tell, as a member of the Swaledale and Arkengarthdale Archaeology Group he had been up one of the ravines nearby to monitor the state of the juniper. You can follow his activities here: http://www.swaag.org/

I made it back to the car with very little daylight left and although I hadn't reached my intended target, this was a fun little walk and it was fantastic to be out and about in Teesdale again.

A 2011 Retrospective: Part One

So far 2012 has got off to a flying start, with three great walks done in January and many plans for the months to come including a number of challenge walks. Right now I'd like to take a trip back to the year gone by and a look at some of the walks and adventures undertaken then. This post links back to some highlights from the first half of the year, enjoy!

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2011 was a great year for me walking-wise. As well as making a number of trips to the Lake District I really got my teeth into some of the areas closer to home - the Yorkshire Dales and Teesdale. As well as walking achievements I had a fantastic year - I married my beautiful wife Claire and we had a wonderful short honeymoon in Ambleside. Getting to grips with my new job, music and a Summer trip to the Ile d'Yeu off the coast of Vendee, France have been some other highlights.

Let me take you back to some of my walking highlights from the first half of 2011. Please click on the links for the full stories and pictures

Teesdale - Cauldron Snout and Cow Green

On an icy cold day last Winter I made a trip up Teesdale which is a great drive in itself. Instead of stopping at the regular spot at High Force I continued up to the waterfall and reservoir of Cauldron Snout and Cow Green. READ THE BLOG POST HERE

Scrambling in the North-Western Fells - The Bishop of Barf

Due to a trial-bike event most of the regular paths around Whinlatter were closed to walkers, this meant taking the direct route up Barf via the Bishop. Not for the faint-hearted! READ THE BLOG POST HERE

The Meadows of Swaledale - Muker to Keld

We were too early in the season to see the celebrated meadows of Swaledale in full bloom, but this walk around the upper reaches of Swaledale is spectacular any time of year. READ THE BLOG POST HERE

Nine Standards Rigg

Having marvelled at pictures of this fell and it's Nine Standards as well as viewing it through the window of a car on the way to the Lakes, I finally made a visit to this Coast to Coast attraction. READ THE BLOG POST HERE

Conquering the Big Guns - Great Gable

This was my contribution to the Wainwright Society 2011 Challenge walk. Thick fog and heavy rain meant it was indeed a challenge! READ THE BLOG POST HERE

Falls and Follies - In the Yorkshire Dales

Picturesque villages, legendary waterfalls, meadows, mysterious follies and stone barns - this low level Dales walk to from West Burton the the Aysgarth Falls certainly packs a punch. READ THE BLOG POST HERE

High Force

Whilst on our way to show visiting relatives some hot spots of the Dales we decided on the spur of the moment to shift our attention to the North Pennines and headed over through Middleton-in-Teesdale over to High Force. This is always a spectacular spot especially combined with joining the Pennine Way for a mile or two of pleasant walking.

Having parked up at the High Force hotel, we avoided the tourist route to the viewing platform, following a steep footpath down through the woods that brings you out onto a pasture on the banks of the Tees. The scent of wild garlic was still there at a couple of spots, last time I was there the woodland floor was covered.

This is a little paradise for rabbits, we saw large groups of them playing in the grass. We crossed the river at the footbridge to join the Pennine Way on the other side of the river.

This is a lovely walk in itself, the well maintained path flanked by numerous juniper and blackberry bushes. As the path climbed, the sound of the falls got louder and after a short climb we found our way to the viewing area. High Force is always a bit of a showstopper and even when you know what to expect it is still a spectacular sight. We paused here for a while to take pictures and enjoy the atmosphere.

From here it is a short walk upwards until you reach the top of the falls, and can see the water cascading down past you over the layers of rock that make up the unique rock face.

The river above the falls is rugged and it is a great view looking upstream towards Cronkley Fell. It isn't too far from here up to Cauldron Snout and Cow Green reservoir which i visited early in the year.

With the usual time constraints we headed back the way we came, leaving the other walks to be had in the area for another time.

Ruins and Rivers - Easby and Egglestone Abbeys

Driving around the region takes you by countless remnants of times gone by - ruined castles at Richmond, Barnard Castle and Brough, former mining buildings such as Crackpot Hall up in Swaledale and collapsed buildings such as the lavishly named Ravock Castle high on Bowes Moor. There is also plenty evidence of monastic life remaining and I recently explored a couple of these sites - Egglestone Abbey near Barnard Castle and Easby Abbey near Richmond.

Both are ruined Premonstratensian Abbeys, founded in the 12th Century. The monks wore white habits and became to be know as White Canons, living a lifestyle similar to that of Cistercian monks. Within 15 miles of each other, the two abbeys were to suffer a similar fate. Ultimately brought to closure and abandonment by Henry VIII's dissolution, they also both suffered heavily from Scottish raids as well as at the hands of the English army.

Today both sites are managed by the English Heritage.

Egglestone Abbey church

I made an unscheduled visit to Egglestone Abbey, whilst on the way to High Force. The site lays on the Teesdale Way and there was no shortage of walkers passing. I think before long I will be doing a section of this walk heading from here to Cotherstone via Barnard Castle - watch this space...

Egglestone Abbey occupies a great spot, a short distance from the southern bank of the Tees, nestled between hills and fields. The ruins are fairly spectacular and it is amazing how much of the stonework has survived. The site is well preserved with a number of graves and tombstones still intact and some stonework on the ground giving you an impression of how the buildings might once have been.

Egglestone Abbey dayrooms with dormitory above

Leaving the Tees, we now head over to Swaledale and Easby Abbey, just outside of Richmond.

Having visited Easby Abbey a few years ago, it was a pleasant surprise to find that there were many new information boards dotted around the site explaining what all the buildings originally were.

You can do a very pleasant circular walk from Richmond, I started at the station and followed the footpath along the old railway line for a mile or so. This takes you along rural Richmond, and shortly you catch glimpses of Easby Abbey between the trees to your left. Coming up to the river Swale you may have to hold your nose for a short distance as you go past the sewage works - depending on the direction the wind is blowing...this is one of the few moments that having a blocked nose worked to my advantage.

You get a great view of the river from the bridge before following a woodland path for the remaining distance to Easby, coming out of the woods just before St. Agatha's Church church and with the Abbey nestled behind the church. It is a huge site, and must have been very impressive when it was standing. You can walk all around the site and as I mentioned there is a lot of information available.

The return section of the walk goes through a field before rejoining the woodland path along the river, coming into Richmond passing the Drummer Boy Stone. You can read about the legend of the drummer boy here.
This is a very enjoyable walk with a good variety of things to see and visit in a few short miles.

the Drummer Boy Stone

Teesdale Way - Cotherstone to Romaldskirk

I haven't had time to make any Lakeland excursions recently, but that gives me the chance explore some of the great places on my doorstep. I recently returned to Cotherstone, where I had previously been on the way to visit the Teesdale Reservoirs of Hury and Blackton. Using my trusty Cicerone guide to walks in County Durham I headed off on this circular walk taking in a section of the Teesdale Way.

Starting off at Cotherstone it was dry but clouds were looking ominous overhead. The walk started off in fine fashion, where the River Balder spills out into the River Tees

 

The Tees at that point is wide and serene as it winds its was eastwards, flanked by wooded banks. The walk follows the riverbank through the trees for a short while  then climbs up a bank away from the river to cross some meadows before returning to the river. I passed the buildings of Woden Croft, which was originally one of the infamous Yorkshire Schools condemned by Charles Dickens. Along the river it was absolutely quiet and I had the place to myself. After a short while the path once again veered away from the river cutting though fields and a past old farm buildings heading up the hill towards Romaldskirk

Having gained a little height the views spread out with Teesdale resplendent even under grey weather. An alley of trees takes you into the village lined with colourful plants and the scent of wild garlic.

The path then enters Romaldskirk which is a picture postcard village complete with church, village green, pubs and a stream bearing the intriguing name of Beer Beck.

Definitely looks like a place to go for a pub lunch and quiet look about, or a stay in a holiday cottage. As usual I was on a tight schedule and so I didn't get much of a chance to look around the village and soon i was back on the trial, moving out of the village along a narrow footpath that ended with this arch of trees giving way to open fields.

After crossing a few more fields the path drops back down to meet the Tees, crossing this on the 17th century Eggleston Bridge.The weather took a turn for the worse here, with the light drizzle turning into a steady downpour and so I upped the pace a little and didn't have the opportunity to have a closer look at the bridge or the nearby Eggleston Hall and its gardens. Following the opposite river bank, the walk heads back towards Cotherstone before moving away from the river and up onto the fields and moors. There were some great views high over the Tees with the tops of Goldsborough and Shacklesborough visible through the drizzle.

With the weather not the best I unfortunately missed stopping to take in the recommended viewpoint at Percy Mere Rock. The path then dropped back down to the river crossing a footbridge and once again offering a lovely view of the river Tees.

At this point the walk completes the circle bringing you back to the bridge over the river Balder, a couple of hundred yards from the village of Cotherstone and the start of the walk. A lovely quiet part of Teesdale that is well worth exploring.

Teesdale on a sunny Sunday - Harter Fell and Grassholme from Middleton-in-Teesdale

I am sure you have all enjoyed the great start to Spring, I have been taking every opportunity to tackle some local walks and enjoy the sun. Last weekend I headed out into Teesdale, a spectacular area with vast deserted swathes of land,  I have also been able to avoid the crowds each time I have been up there.

Middleton-in-Teesdale from the slopes of Harter Fell

I started off none too cleverly, missing where I wanted to park up near Selset reservoir, and ending up 10 miles or so down the road in Cumbria at the bottom of Warcop training area with Warcop and Mickle Fell before me! It was a nice drive along a quiet dales road through fairly desolate landscape, with the road running alongside the river Lune for much of the way so no complaints from me.

the river Lune snaking its way beside the road

So a quick u-turn and I made my way back to Middleton-In-Teesdale, parking up at the free car park. I headed out of town in a southerly direction and onto the Pennine Way.

looking up to Harter Fell

I had Harter Fell in my sights ahead of me, and the trees of Kirkcarrion to the left. The trees are of historical significance, marking a bronze age burial ground and as my guidebook correctly said, this was the pivotal reference of my walk - the trees were visible on the whole circuit.

the walled trees of Kirkcarrion

The climb up to Harter Fell was easy enough, and I stopped from time to time to look back at Teesdale as it opened up behind me. At the top I could finally see over to the other side, with the views stretching for miles over to the Howgill Fells, and with Grassholme reservoir just below me and Selset reservoir just beyond..

view to the south from the top of Harter Fell

The path made its way round the side of the fell, before dropping to Wythes Hil farm. At this point I saw this ominous sign - American Werewolf In London anyone??!

"beware the moors...."

Crossing the fields after the farm I crossed the only other person I was to see on this walk - amazing when you consider that it was such a beautiful day. Not my loss in any way!

Grassholme Reservoir

I soon reached Grassholme Reservoir, and I thought it was a lovely place. Alfred Wainwright definitely disagreed, condemning the creation of the series of reservoirs here and over in Balderdale a  few miles away. People were fishing, having picnics and sailing on the reservoir, but it was still very quiet. I think time has probably mellowed the edges and allowed the artificial lakes to blend into the landscape and establish a character of their own.

sailing on the reservoir

Unfortunately I didn't have time on my side so I gave the visitors centre a miss so that's one for another trip. The last section of the walk took me across a few more fields before following the Teesdale Railway footpath and crossing the impressive viaduct.

After the railway path there was a short and pleasant section alongside the Tees which brought me back to Middleton-In-Teesdale and the car.

 

For this walk I followed a route in the Cicerone guide to walks in County Durham, and I can recommend the book, having done many walks as described, the routes are easy to follow and highlight all the places of interest along the way.

A quick Baldersdale Tour

view of Goldsborough from the Hury reservoir

As I've been away  in Berlin no new walks this week.  Here are some photos from a great walk I did in Baldersdale last year. Alfred Wainwright is highly critical of the damming of the Tees to create the reservoirs, but I think time has been kind to the reservoirs, and they fit into the landscape very well now in my humble opinion.

Hury reservoir

I parked up at the Hury reservoir car park, then walked along the side of the reservoir towards Blackton reservoir. It was so quiet round there, hardly any tourists for such a picturesque spot.

Blackton reservoir with Shackleton in the distance

I then cut through a hole in the wall up the hill back towards the road, and got a bit lost in the fields on the way up. It started to rain and whilst the sky was getting darker and darker on one side it stayed clear to the east - maybe just it was just time to follow the gap in the cloud?

After going round a farm I head up the other side of the road towards Goldsborough. This brought me onto the Bowes loop of the Pennine Way. Apparently there is good climbing to be done here, but I was on my own here today.

Goldsborough

It was a fairly short walk from the road to Goldsborough and not as boggy as expected - no complaints there.There were some great views from the summit of Goldsborough back to the reservoirs and over to Shacklesborough - another gritstone outcrop - in the distance.

I headed on towards a the Battle Hill firing ranges, and turned back towards the car at How Beck.

an old sheep fold at How Beck

The walk back would have been quick and easy but a couple of "Beware Bull In Field!" signs meant I took a little detour before finding my way back to the car.

rainbow over Hury reservoir

Altogether a great walk and very quiet - one to do when the bank holiday crowds are in the Lakes I reckon!