Misty Baldersdale

It's been a long tough Winter up until now as far as walking and me are concerned. Every spare morning or day on a weekend has been taken up by work and studies and so I haven't been able to get out and about anywhere near as much as I would like to have. I did manage a quick escape on a long Sunday afternoon, jumping into the car and heading up into Teesdale.

I have explored the area around Baldersdale a couple of times already, walking up Goldsborough and nearby Hury reservoir. A couple of miles to the south near Bowes you have the spectacular God's Bridge which can be visited on the Bowes loop on the Pennine Way.

AW didn't have good things to say about the reservoirs here. I think over the years nature has reimposed itself on the area and for me the man made lakes can be seen as a thing of beauty. This is a remote part of Teesdale and away from the star attractions such as High Force and as such, it is a perfect place to get away from it all.

I only had a couple of hours of daylight left, so my intention was to park up near Blackton reservoir and have a quick walk up Shacklesborough. This is a limestone outcrop, similar to its twin Goldsborough, poking it's head up from the moors with a flat summit that reminds me of a miniature Ingleborough.

However the weather had other plans, and once I had made some headway along the Pennine Way and up past Balderhead reservoir, the mist closed in and the visibility was reduced dramatically. Although my GPS told me that Shacklesborough was just a short distance ahead, it was nowhere in sight! Furthermore the light was fading fast, so I decided the best thing to do would be to head back to the car, making a small detour to walk along the water. This was a bit of a mistake, as although the shoreline looked fairly straight and easy to follow there were in fact some sudden steep ravines, which meant I had to make long detours.

I bumped into one other person on the walk only and we had a chat about where we had been that day. Tim Laurie had a fascinating story to tell, as a member of the Swaledale and Arkengarthdale Archaeology Group he had been up one of the ravines nearby to monitor the state of the juniper. You can follow his activities here: http://www.swaag.org/

I made it back to the car with very little daylight left and although I hadn't reached my intended target, this was a fun little walk and it was fantastic to be out and about in Teesdale again.

Tan Hill to Keld on the Pennine Way

Computers eh sometimes you love them, sometimes..... they delete your work for no apparent reason - so here goes, my second write up of this walk!

Tan Hill Inn

As part of our mission to do as many challenge walks as time constraints permit this year, for this month I had decided to do a big Swaledale challenge. I decided to combine two classic long distance paths, taking the Pennine Way down from Tan Hill to Keld and then heading over on the Coast to Coast to Reeth.

We had originally planned to do this the other way round ending up at Tan Hill but unfortunately the bunk barn was fully booked up. I have never been to Tan Hill and Claire is a big fan having been several times on work outings and made firm friends with the pub lamb, Spotty Muldoune!

Nine Standards Rigg in the distance

We parked up at Tan Hill and headed off southwards on the Pennine Way. It was to be a day of changing weather and landscape, and as the pictures show we started off dry but overcast, with vibrant colours across land and sky. From the tops of the moors we had huge views, to the northern Pennines over the A66, westwards to Nine Standards Rigg and with some of the iconic Dales fells visible to the south.

A Swaledale stone barn

The recent dry weather meant that this crossing of the moors was springy rather than boggy and a real pleasure to walk on. Soon enough the pub was just a speck in the distance behind us, and we were in remote territory, with the occasional stone barn for company. Down to the right of us was a tiny road winding its way along the Dale along a little beck where I spotted this packhorse bridge.

Keld soon came into sight, nestled beneath the rounded slopes of Kisdon fell. And with Keld came the switch from the Pennine Way to the Coast to Coast, heading easterly instead of to the south. Coming down the brow of the hill we were rewarded with a fantastic view down the head of Swaledale, surely one of the finest views in the Dales.

Kisdon

Stopping at East Gill Force (thanks to Gary Richardson for the correction! Please look at Gary's fantastic Wainwrights website here) we will pick up on this walk next week. Be warned the weather takes a turn for the worse, so make sure you pack your hat and gloves for the read on!

East Gill Force

High Force

Whilst on our way to show visiting relatives some hot spots of the Dales we decided on the spur of the moment to shift our attention to the North Pennines and headed over through Middleton-in-Teesdale over to High Force. This is always a spectacular spot especially combined with joining the Pennine Way for a mile or two of pleasant walking.

Having parked up at the High Force hotel, we avoided the tourist route to the viewing platform, following a steep footpath down through the woods that brings you out onto a pasture on the banks of the Tees. The scent of wild garlic was still there at a couple of spots, last time I was there the woodland floor was covered.

This is a little paradise for rabbits, we saw large groups of them playing in the grass. We crossed the river at the footbridge to join the Pennine Way on the other side of the river.

This is a lovely walk in itself, the well maintained path flanked by numerous juniper and blackberry bushes. As the path climbed, the sound of the falls got louder and after a short climb we found our way to the viewing area. High Force is always a bit of a showstopper and even when you know what to expect it is still a spectacular sight. We paused here for a while to take pictures and enjoy the atmosphere.

From here it is a short walk upwards until you reach the top of the falls, and can see the water cascading down past you over the layers of rock that make up the unique rock face.

The river above the falls is rugged and it is a great view looking upstream towards Cronkley Fell. It isn't too far from here up to Cauldron Snout and Cow Green reservoir which i visited early in the year.

With the usual time constraints we headed back the way we came, leaving the other walks to be had in the area for another time.

The Pennine Way Through Malham

Having made a fantastic walk along the waterside of Malham Tarn down to Gordale Scar, we stopped briefly for an ice cream before heading onwards towards Malham.

We took the footpath that took us to the very picturesque waterfall of Janet's Foss. We weren't the only ones there, it was packed and there wasn't much of an opportunity for good pictures. The walk through the woods was very enjoyable once we left the crowds behind, and the scent of wild garlic accompanied us all the way.

We left the woods behind and crossed the meadows with Gordale Beck bubbling alongside us. We made a brief detour on the path approaching Malham village - the bull blocking the path didn't look like one you wanted to start an argument with...

Malham is a lovely little village, on a bank holiday is was invaded by tourists and you could see why, the buildings, pubs, streams and surrounding countryside is magical.

We still had plenty to see so we decided against stopping for refreshments, heading on up towards Malham Cove. The view ahead of us was quite breathtaking, as Malham Cove slowly started to reveal its full glory.

We went right up to the foot of the Cove and from there you could appreciate the full 80 metres in height and 300 metres of width of this spectacular place. As with Gordale Scar, this is a paradise for climbers, and for the time being it is also an important site for the RSPB with a pair of Peregrine Falcons nesting on the side of the cove.

We took the steps up to the left side of the Cove before reaching the limestone pavement at the top. This is yet another breathtaking sight, with huge slabs of limestone separated by deep fissures.

 
We explored the top of the Cove for a while, before following the Pennine Way back up to Malham Tarn, along the bottom of a dry valley.

We retraced our path along the side of the Tarn, stopping briefly when we spotted a couple of deer in the distance. We made it back to the car just as the first drops of rain were falling, saying goodbye to Jase before heading home.

For more information on the area around Malham please visit this site which I found very interesting.

Teesdale on a sunny Sunday - Harter Fell and Grassholme from Middleton-in-Teesdale

I am sure you have all enjoyed the great start to Spring, I have been taking every opportunity to tackle some local walks and enjoy the sun. Last weekend I headed out into Teesdale, a spectacular area with vast deserted swathes of land,  I have also been able to avoid the crowds each time I have been up there.

Middleton-in-Teesdale from the slopes of Harter Fell

I started off none too cleverly, missing where I wanted to park up near Selset reservoir, and ending up 10 miles or so down the road in Cumbria at the bottom of Warcop training area with Warcop and Mickle Fell before me! It was a nice drive along a quiet dales road through fairly desolate landscape, with the road running alongside the river Lune for much of the way so no complaints from me.

the river Lune snaking its way beside the road

So a quick u-turn and I made my way back to Middleton-In-Teesdale, parking up at the free car park. I headed out of town in a southerly direction and onto the Pennine Way.

looking up to Harter Fell

I had Harter Fell in my sights ahead of me, and the trees of Kirkcarrion to the left. The trees are of historical significance, marking a bronze age burial ground and as my guidebook correctly said, this was the pivotal reference of my walk - the trees were visible on the whole circuit.

the walled trees of Kirkcarrion

The climb up to Harter Fell was easy enough, and I stopped from time to time to look back at Teesdale as it opened up behind me. At the top I could finally see over to the other side, with the views stretching for miles over to the Howgill Fells, and with Grassholme reservoir just below me and Selset reservoir just beyond..

view to the south from the top of Harter Fell

The path made its way round the side of the fell, before dropping to Wythes Hil farm. At this point I saw this ominous sign - American Werewolf In London anyone??!

"beware the moors...."

Crossing the fields after the farm I crossed the only other person I was to see on this walk - amazing when you consider that it was such a beautiful day. Not my loss in any way!

Grassholme Reservoir

I soon reached Grassholme Reservoir, and I thought it was a lovely place. Alfred Wainwright definitely disagreed, condemning the creation of the series of reservoirs here and over in Balderdale a  few miles away. People were fishing, having picnics and sailing on the reservoir, but it was still very quiet. I think time has probably mellowed the edges and allowed the artificial lakes to blend into the landscape and establish a character of their own.

sailing on the reservoir

Unfortunately I didn't have time on my side so I gave the visitors centre a miss so that's one for another trip. The last section of the walk took me across a few more fields before following the Teesdale Railway footpath and crossing the impressive viaduct.

After the railway path there was a short and pleasant section alongside the Tees which brought me back to Middleton-In-Teesdale and the car.

 

For this walk I followed a route in the Cicerone guide to walks in County Durham, and I can recommend the book, having done many walks as described, the routes are easy to follow and highlight all the places of interest along the way.

A quick Baldersdale Tour

view of Goldsborough from the Hury reservoir

As I've been away  in Berlin no new walks this week.  Here are some photos from a great walk I did in Baldersdale last year. Alfred Wainwright is highly critical of the damming of the Tees to create the reservoirs, but I think time has been kind to the reservoirs, and they fit into the landscape very well now in my humble opinion.

Hury reservoir

I parked up at the Hury reservoir car park, then walked along the side of the reservoir towards Blackton reservoir. It was so quiet round there, hardly any tourists for such a picturesque spot.

Blackton reservoir with Shackleton in the distance

I then cut through a hole in the wall up the hill back towards the road, and got a bit lost in the fields on the way up. It started to rain and whilst the sky was getting darker and darker on one side it stayed clear to the east - maybe just it was just time to follow the gap in the cloud?

After going round a farm I head up the other side of the road towards Goldsborough. This brought me onto the Bowes loop of the Pennine Way. Apparently there is good climbing to be done here, but I was on my own here today.

Goldsborough

It was a fairly short walk from the road to Goldsborough and not as boggy as expected - no complaints there.There were some great views from the summit of Goldsborough back to the reservoirs and over to Shacklesborough - another gritstone outcrop - in the distance.

I headed on towards a the Battle Hill firing ranges, and turned back towards the car at How Beck.

an old sheep fold at How Beck

The walk back would have been quick and easy but a couple of "Beware Bull In Field!" signs meant I took a little detour before finding my way back to the car.

rainbow over Hury reservoir

Altogether a great walk and very quiet - one to do when the bank holiday crowds are in the Lakes I reckon!

A Swaledale Tour - Muker to Keld

We decided to do this walk at short notice, making the most of the good Spring weather. We headed out through the Swale valley, through Reeth, Low Row and Gunnerside before parking up at Muker.

Muker is a tiny picturesque village right out in the depths of Swaledale, an absolutely lovely setting. Our route would take us from Muker high up along the side of Kisdon fell overlooking the valley below. Just before reaching Keld we crossed the river and returned on the opposite river bank.

The walk started with a good little climb up Kisdon, until we reached the Pennine Way. We followed the path northwards, with just the Swaledale sheep for company - we met very few people out today.
Looking backwards we had fantastic views back down to Muker and Muker Common overlooking the village. Further west we could see Great Shunner Fell looming in the distance.

The walk along the side of Kisdon was fantastic, it was hard not to stop every few seconds to take another picture of the Swale and its many stone barns that were strung out along the dale. We had great views over to Swinner Gill and Crackpot Hall high on the other side.

We then started descending back down towards the river. Just before reaching Keld we followed the Pennine Way all the way down to the river. We had a brief stop at the very picturesque East Gill Force before pressing on.

As well as the old stone barns, there was plenty of evidence that this used to be a working valley, with other old machinery, spoil heaps and spectacular stone mine arches being all that remained from this former industrial landscape.

The land all around us was very lush and green, and the well made paths made for quite different walking to other trails and paths we have walked in the region. Soon enough we reached the footbridge taking us back over the Swale and back towards Muker.

The last few fields had an unusual narrow stone-flagged path to follow, with instructions not to walk off the path and to keep to single file! The reason being that the fields we were crossing were traditional hay meadows. Claire's colleague told us to return here in Summer when the meadows are in full flower - will do.

We were soon back where we started, and it was a fabulous walk that I am sure we will be doing again.