Souther Fell more Northern Fells fun!

Following some recent roaming around the Skiddaw range, Claire and I had a few hours on our way home from the Lakes, so we headed off the A66 for a quick stop at Mungrisdale village and a nip up the slopes of Souther Fell.

Souther Fell

Strictly speaking this is an extension of the Blencathra range and when coming eastwards on the A66 it is Souther Fell that hides the bulk of Blencathra itself. Its smooth slopes up from the pretty village of Mungrisdale mean an easy enough climb - just right for the day after a long hard slog! If you had a full day it is also a great alternative route up some of the busier neighbouring fells.

looking back towards Mungrisdale

The walk out of the village is steep but easy going up the grassy slopes. Stopping every once in a while the view behind you really stretches out, across the plains to the Pennines and over Little Mell Fell and Great Mell Fell until the Eastern and Far Eastern Fells come into sight.

looking across to the Mell Fells

Without any scrambling to do this might be considered dull by many, but for a quick walk for an hour or two this was just right. The sun was beating down but the relative ease of the fell meant it wasn't too hot. The views juest kept getting better, coming round the curve of the fell we could also see over towards Bowscale Fell and Bannerdale Crags.

Bannerdale Crags

The summit is a long flat ridge, not at all your typical textbook fell top - but a bit of level walking is always welcome after a steady climb. Once you have reached the summit plains the "saddle" of Blencathra reveals its full glory with great views of some of its classic ridges.

Blencathra rising in the distance

Instead of retracing our steps we carried on westwards slowly coming off the fell until we reached Mousthwaite Comb. Slowly the ants we could see in the distance revealed themselves to be fellow walkers making the pilgrimage up towards Scales Tarn on the way up to Blencathra via Sharp Edge.

Sharp Edge and Foule Crag

When we met the river Glenderamackin we turned back eastwards and followed the stream back along the valley, with steep grassy on either side. The descent off the fell top seemed fairly gentle and it was a suprise to see just how far we had descended when looking back up at Souther Fell.

the return route along the bottom of the valley

The rest of the return journey along the valley was easy walking and we soon walked through the gate that brings you back into the pretty village of Mungrisdale. Did I already mention how pretty Mungrisdale is?!

the gateway to the village

A Windermere Wash-Out

Last weekend was set to be one of the highlights of the month - I had entered for the Great North Swim, booked into our favourite bed & breakfast in Ambleside, booked a table at the fab Zefirellis for the Saturday night and picked out a number of walks for the Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning.

a dismal looking Helm Crag

As can happen with mother nature and the Lake District come head to head, it wasn't to be. I got the news on Friday afternoon that the swim was cancelled, but seeing as the rest was already booked Claire and I thought we'd make the most of it and enjoy a weekend in the Lakes - it takes more than a spot of rain to deter us! But doubts were setting in on the horrendous drive over on Friday night, with parts of the A66 flooded not to mention the side roads such as the one to St Johns In The Vale looking unpassable.

heavy clouds over Thirmere taken from the car

 After a nice night out in Ambleside, the weather on the Saturday morning was no better! I always look for the silver lining as you may have noticed, so as we decided to cut our trip short, we made a detour to Booths in Keswick for some walking magazines and Lakeland ales, as well as a stop at the rather nice Rheged Centre just outside Penrith where we had a look and the shops and enjoyed the photo gallery on display which included several pictures from my namesake Tom Chapman!

the goodies!

Ospreys in the Lake District

As I wrote last week, a recent trip up the Northern Fells wasn't without its mishaps. But clouds and silver linings and all that - one of the side effects of us not going up Ullock Pike was that we ended up on the wooded slopes of Dodd.

one of the paths in the wood

Not only that but we had the rarest of things too, some spare moments in the Lake District! So we decided to follow our noses or if you prefer the many signposts, and headed up to the Osprey viewing platforms that are perched on the side of the fell.

model of an Osprey nest

The Osprey in case you didn't know (don't worry - I didn't) is also known as Sea Hawk or Fish Eagle among other names - so you know that means this is one big mean bird! Ospreys have been returning to Bassenthwait Lake in the Lake District since 2001 and chicks have also been successfully reared there too.

the lower viewing platform

We were lucky to be there just one day after a chick had hatched, and we were able to get great views of the adult birds through the telescopes manned and provided by the Lake District Osprey Project.

looking across Bassenthwaite Lake

The birds were amazing to watch and we felt lucky to have been there on that day! Seeing as my camera does not have a mega telescopic lens you'll have to take my word for it that these are magnificent creatures - although you could always nip over to Dodd and have a look for yourself!

looking back at the summit of Dodd

Recommended Links:
Forestry Commission page about Dodd Wood
The  Lake District Osprey Project

Exploring the Lake District's Northern Fells

The Skiddaw range

This was a strange day indeed. It started out with nothing but promise, so nearly let us down, yet came around at just the right time. It also left a lasting impression, even more so than the usual Lake District walks!

Packed lunch sorted, we took the bus up past the Forestry Commission site at Dodd wood leaving us at the foot of Ullock Pike. It was a truly magnificent day with not a cloud in the sky and a breeze on our faces as we headed up the steep start of the walk through the sylvan wooded slopes. Once we were out of the woodland it picked up. The heat of the sun was pounding on our faces but the breeze had also increased its welcoming freshness too. 

looking northwards to the slopes of Binsey

As we reached the ridge that traverses Ullock Pike and onto Long Side and Carl Side our luck took a turn for the worse and we were treated to a howling wind. We pushed on, nearly getting knocked off our feet on several occasions and with the wind increasing in strength with every metre of ascent gained. 

the peak of Ullock Pike ahead

Soon enough we started passing bedraggled walkers coming down the other way, and without fail they all warned us that the winds were too strong and they had turned back before the sharp peak of Ullock Pike. It seemed crazy, it was such a beautiful day, yet the high ground was destined to be out of reach. After a short moment of stubborn persistence on my part, Claire and I decided enough was enough and so we headed back down.

looking across Bassenthwaite Lake

The Rescue

On our walk back down crossing a couple of fields we saw a lamb in the distance which seemed very interested in the field's perimeter fence. On closer inspection we saw why - it had its head stuck in the fence! Claire being the braver of us took the front end, whilst I held the back end of the lamb to stop it from struggling too much. In under a minute it was free and ran off bleating to its mother and an intense feeding session. Despite being beaten by the winds on Ullock Pike, we now felt that we had achieved something far more worthwhile!

Dodd

Bassenthwaite Lake from Dodd wood

Our walk back to Keswick took us through the very pleasant woodland around the foot of Dodd wood, until we reached the welcome picnic and rest area at The Old Sawmill Tearoom where we stopped for our fab pasties which we had picked up in the morning. After lunch our route went up the slopes of Dodd past the osprey viewing platforms - more on this in a future post. 

looking back to the summit of Dodd

Soon enough I noticed that we had gained significant height and were not at all far off the ridge route to the summit of Carl Side, which happened to by my designated fell for the Wainwright Society challenge walk of 2012! Somehow we had missed the path off to the summit of Dodd, so this looked like the last chance change to climb a peak today.

Carl Side

As we headed up the path to the summit, the wind returned with a vengeance, nowhere near as strong as earlier in the day and with the path along much wider terrain we felt much safer, but it was still a struggle to make the summit. 

a look back to Keswick and Derwentwater

The clear skies rewarded us with more fantastic views, over the vale of Keswick and Derwentwater, up the steep scarred slopes of Skiddaw and Skiddaw Little Man and with a hazy Isle Of Man rising from the sea.

Skiddaw looms behind Carl Side

It wasn't the kind of weather to hang about in though, so after a minute or two on the summit of Carl Side we headed back down the steep descent in the direction of the hospitality of the pubs of Keswick, satisfied and tired after a long day of adventure!

Exams!

Blimey that was a quick week! As I am in the midst of exams, sadly there is no new post ready, for both this week and next week, and of course dear reader, I apologise profusely for that!

Food, or is that drink for thought?

I've done some great walks recently in Wainwright's Northern Lakes, so look out for the stories very soon!

Dodd from the slopes of Carl Side

Recharging the Batteries

It's been a hell of a long wait, but finally I will be returning to the Lake District in the next few days. It seems like an eternity since our Scafell Pike walk, and although there have been some good walks in Swaledale and Three Peaks country over the past few months I can't wait to set my foot back on Lake District turf.

Loughrigg Tarn with the Langdale Pikes in the distance

Other commitments including work, a return to college and good old rock'n'roll have meant I have had to cut down on walks recently, but I am really looking forward to getting back out in the hills, reacquainting myself with some old favourites and getting some new peaks under my belt.

Coniston Water

I sometimes think about "peak bagging" or "doing the Wainwrights" and how fellwalking can seem like a mission to complete lists and tick boxes rather than for the pleasure of it, but I think that's only the half of it. Trying to do new fells means you are always exploring new scenery and finding new favourites to revisit. Our Swaledale expedition this Spring is sure to become a firm favourite as it was a sensational walk. Visiting some of the less popular fells means a better chance of avoiding the crowds, and even in the height of Summer or a popular Bank Holiday weekend, you can still find areas in the Lake District where fellow walkers are few and far between.

solitude can be found even on the summit of Blencathra

One great benefit of a weekend of walking is how getting away from it all really refreshes the mind as well as body. I come up with different perspectives problems or difficult questions, and there's nothing better than coming off the fells with a fresh solution to an idea you have been wrestling with at work, or a new songwriting idea. And let's face it, being inspired by the Lakes puts you in the company of some great minds, and that's no bad thing now is it?

Hawkshead Grammar School - Wordsworth's school

Swaledale's Mining Legacy

Some of my recent walks have taken me along some of the finest scenery in the Dales and at the same time shown me a great deal of Swaledale's industrial heritage. I thought I'd take this opportunity to take a closer look at some of these historic sites. Far from being an expert, I found these places really interesting and I thought I would share some information and images with you.

Crackpot Hall

Crackpot Hall overlooking Swaledale

I have been interested in exploring the ruins of Crackpot Hall ever since learning about it from Julia Bradbury's Coast to Coast programme. This is not only a really interesting building complete with outhouses but it offers some really spectacular views along Swaledale. The buildings had been used as a shooting lodge and farmhouse but have stood empty since the 1950s.  For more information read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keld,_North_Yorkshire

Crackpot Hall plaque unfortunately missing!

Swinner Gill Lead Mines

At the point where Swinner Gill and East Grain meet, the footpath crosses a small stone bridge and beneath the bridge you can see how the rocks have been polished slick by hushing, which was a method of mining that used water to reveal mineral veins. As we stopped to take a couple of pictures a fellow walker told us about a cave further up the gill at Swinnergill Kirk that served as a place of worship for Catholics at a time of religious persecution. Here is a walk report in the area for you to read on the excellent Walking Englishman website: http://www.walkingenglishman.com/dales4.htm

Blakethwaite Smelt Mill

I have visited this site twice now, but I think it will remain a sight that I could never tire of. The arches that remain would be just at home on the site of an ancient abbey such as Easby or Egglestone as they are here high up Gunnerside Gill. The kiln is still fully intact and also looks like it was built as part of a castle rather than for the smelt mill. This site started its working life in 1821, smelting ore from the Blakethwaite and Lownathwaite mines.

looking up to the kiln

Old Gang Smelting Mill

Coming round a corned along the bridleway heading from west to east, the approach to Old Gang Smelting Mill is an impressive one - evidence of the mining past is all around as you spot a tunnel here, another level there before spying the collection of buildings in the distance. It's quite amazing to think the network of tunnels stretches all the way back to Gunnerside Gill. There is a lot still to see here with the tall chimney dominating the scene. There is a good walk described in Paul Hannon's "Walking Country - Swaledale" book which takes in this site and offers plenty of background information.

Surrender Lead Smelt Mill

Dating from around 1840, this old mill and peat house is not too far from Surrender Bridge. It is a grade 2 listed building and was built to replace a mill from 1680. For more information about the mines of Yorkshire have a look at this excellent site: http://www.martinroe.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

High up on the moors heading towards the Old Gang Smelting Mill on what is almost a lunar landscape we came across this disused stone-breaking machine, I wonder if it has been left up there as a momento of an industrial time gone by?

This article goes into much more detail about the lead mining history of the northern Dales and is well worth a read: http://www.outofoblivion.org.uk/lead.asp